knitting · pattern · wool

Garter Scrap Shawl.

(This shawl pattern is from May 2019; it’s a writeup on how to work what is essentially a very simple diagonal-triangle shawl.)

Gather up your soft yarn scraps, coordinate the colors, and get ready for an easy go-anywhere knit! This bias-knit garter stitch shawl consists of two extremely simple lines of instruction, and about three stitches total. It’s a free knitting pattern, though it’s simple enough that you might think of it more as a recipe. Either way, I hope you enjoy!

The color was weird a little weird on this one, so I guess I opted to remove most of it.

The Garter Scrap Shawl can be knit in any yarn, at any gauge.

My sample is shown in worsted weight, mostly Malabrigo Yarns Washted and Rios, in part because the surplus of loosely-related yarns and colorways left over from the Dog Days series is really what inspired this project. But it would look brilliant in light sock yarns, too, and a finer-gauge project might make a better travel knit.

Materials:

  • 500+ yards of miscellaneous scrap yarns. (The sample shown took about 700 yards; the result is a nice big blanket shawl that weighs about 338g.)
  • 1 long circular needle in US7-8/4.5-5.0mm, or size needed for gauge, or size needed to suit yarn.
  • Tapestry needle for weaving in ends.

Gauge:
Gauge is the great unknowable. You can knit this at any gauge; please choose needles that give you a fabric you like with the yarn you’re using. Gauge in the sample shown is 16 sts and 36 rows in garter stitch before blocking.

Measurements:
Knit until shawl reaches desired measurements. Sample measurements are shown in the schematic below.

In worsted-weight yarn, increasing to a final total of 167 sts, the shawl is about 78”/1.98m across the longest side. It’s almost a perfect triangle, but the shorter sides differ by 2”, something that could probably be lessened by careful blocking.

Abbreviations used:
k—knit
m1r—make 1 right.
p—purl

(I really wasn’t joking; there are three stitches, if you count the increase as a stitch.)

RS/WS—right side, wrong side.
sl1–slip one. Sts are generally slipped purlwise unless otherwise specified.
st/s—stitch, stitches

Begin Work.
Using the cable cast-on method, CO 4 sts. 
Row 1 (RS). sl1, k remaining.
Row 2 (WS). sl1, p1, k remaining.,
Row 3. sl1, k to last 2 sts, m1r, k2 (1 st inc) 5 sts.

Repeat Rows 2 & 3 until shawl reaches desired size, finishing with a completed WS row. The bindoff edge is going to be long. Please make sure you have enough yarn left to work the basic bindoff: sl1, k1, psso, [k1, pass previous st over] until all sts have been consumed. Weave in ends and block lightly.

Gratuitous Notes:

  • If you’ve got enough yarn to equal about 2.5x the current length of the (non-compressed) current row, it should be enough to knit a complete row. You’ll need a bit more than that to bind off.
  • When changing yarns, change them on the right side of work to avoid dotted-line garter stitch effects on the front. It is a shawl, so I mean, the reverse side is probably going to show, but if you like having a side without any dotted-line stripes, this is something to keep in mind.
  • If you’re working with small scraps, and don’t like weaving in ends, consider using them in as part of a fringe instead. If you join all your new scraps on the RS, all the ends will be on the bottom right edge of the triangle. 
  • If you’re working with larger scraps or just dislike fringe, consider going completely crazy and weaving in a few ends as you go. This is sometimes regarded as playing with fire, but if you like how the shawl is coming along, it might be a good time saver, or insurance against spending an hour on the yarn ends when it’s finished.

There are lots of other ways to use your yarn scraps—you could use about 3.25 full skeins of Malabrigo Washted in coordinating colors, use this formula as the base for a temperature shawl, or knit it from a big skein of handspun.

Okay, so that’s it!

knitting · pattern · yarn

Chain Link Square Dishcloth—Summer Kitchen 2022 Free Pattern.

We’re kicking off Summer Kitchen 2022 with a free/payment optional dishcloth pattern—because it’s a dishcloth and pretty straightforward, which feels like it should be free, and because it’s still a whole .PDF and in two formats, which means it’s a lot more subtle, behind-the-scenes work than it would be if I could just beam a project from my brain as I worked through it and knit the first sample, I guess.

Anyway, this is the free version for personal use! Enjoy it; knit as many as you like. If you like it a lot and prefer a .PDF, would like a .PDF in your Ravelry library, or simply want to support this project, you can purchase this as a .PDF through Ravelry.

This simple garter stitch dishcloth introduces (or helps you practice) a specialized increase that create a centered, crochet-look YO column at each corner! Getting used to the increase and a shifting start point makes this basic cloth more engag- ing to knit, while simple details make good kitchen tools.

I’m trying Knitpicks Cotolin for this, but it’s a new yarn for me, and I haven’t used the samples as kitchen cloths yet. You can substitute your preferred kitchen cotton or a combination of cotton or linen threads. This is written for dk-weight yarn, but adjusting the finished size is going to be pretty easy.

Materials:

  • 100-600 yds of handspun chain-plied 12-14 WPI merino wool; shown in Wool for the Dame Corriedale in unknown colorway. For a similar effect, substitute Noro Silk Garden Sock. For a tonal effect, kettle-dyed Malabrigo Yarn Arroyo would be a good commercial option.
  • 1 24”+ circular needle in US5/3.75mm, or size needed for gauge. 
  • Optional: two ⅝-¾” buttons
  • Optional: sewing needle & thread for buttons

Gauge:

Gauge is 10 sts and 18 rows over 2“/5cm in pattern as written, blocked. Please be sure to check your gauge.

Abbreviations used:

  • k—knit
  • k2tog—knit two together; a one-stitch right-leaning decrease
  • m1l/r—make 1 left; make 1 right. Left- or right-leaning one-stitch increase.
  • mst—marked stitch
  • p—purl 
  • RS/WS—right side, wrongside. Public vs. non-public side of the work. 
  • ssk—slip, slip, knit, a one-stitch left-leaning decrease. 
  • st/s—stitch/stitches
  • sl1wf/sl1wyb—slip one with yarn forward/slip one with yarn back
  • YO—yarn over

Measurements/Sizes:

This one is written with customization in mind! The sample is a kerchief-sized triangle. As shown, this specific sample measures 21“/53cm across the longest side and 10.25“/26cm deep. 

Schematic:

Begin Work: Circular Cast-On.
Using Emily Ocker’s circular cast-on method, CO 12 sts. Divide sts evenly between 4 DPNS (3 on each needle). Work in the round.
Optional: place marker at the end of the round. You’ll need to shift the marker as you work, since the beginning of the round is always lined up with the chain link-look column.

Main Pattern.
Round 1. [k1, p2] around.

Important Note—all knit stitches from Round 1 are marked sts (msts). You can use physical markers or just make a mental note to read your knitting—whichever’s most comfortable. When working a kYOk, the YO is in the middle, so marked stitch status transfers to it. This is the most (only?) challenging/interesting part of the project.

Round 2. [kYOk, k to next mst] around (8 sts inc) 20 sts total. Round 3. [k1, p to next mst] around.
Round 4. [kYOk, k to next mst] around (8 sts inc) 28 sts total.

Repeat Rounds 3 & 4 until there are 15(18, 21) ridges of garter stitch, counting from the center out. Many cotton or cotton-linen blends are prone to a little shrinking, so if you’d like a larger cloth, it’s easy to simply add a few rounds.

Bind Off/Finishing.
Bind off using the basic method—k1, k next st, pass previous stitch over, repeat ** until all sts have been bound off—or method of your choice. Weave in any remaining yarn ends, wash, block, and enjoy your finished project!