The title is misleading clickbait. There are no dinosaur bones in this post. I am not really even sure why past-me thought that was a useful heading. Was it going to be about dinosaur bones? I cannot remember.
I haven’t actually posted about any of the recent design projects! I haven’t posted for July!
The main Summer Kitchen (well, loosely: Summer Kitchen has become home decor/organization/housewares in general, and wool boxes are maybe not kitchen-related specifically) project is Little Boxes. (The one above is shown pre-felting. It gets its shape from the yarn it’s holding, but after felting, this particular sample didn’t get as small as the others I’ve done in the same yarn—one even from the same skein. I probably need to up the agitation.) There are some others in the works, but it’s probably going to feel too early to talk about them up until the last minute.
Isurus is the latest shawl. I haven’t been this excited about a shawl in a while, but this was pretty rewarding to design & knit, and finally got me using the fancy Hedgehog Fibres yarn I’ve been holding on to for two years. Two years!
That’s probably going to be it for July, since it’s the 30th now and all. Cheers!
I think my actual goal for the Son of Dog Days project is to create designs that work as little summery kerchief projects—but are also easily expandable, so that you could knit a full-size shawl from the same set of instructions.
SON OF DOG DAYS I: Souvenir
This is a small, textured kerchief; the repeat is standard, so you can easily turn this project into a full-size shawl if you like.
SON OF DOG DAYS II: Oneiros
Working a bias-knit triangle with some tweaks results in a kerchief with a lot more volume, and the combination of garter stitch and stockinette is a nice effect. This one’s also designed with easy customization in mind—there’s extra text explaining how the repeats differ, so that once you know the strategy, you can add as many repeats as you like.
SON OF DOG DAYS III: ???
SON OF DOG DAYS III is closely related to II, with the same basic concept and bias-knit structure. I both wanted to see what this looked like in a garter stitch version, and wanted something extra so I could have a little more promotional flexibility with it. This one follows the same rule of flexibility (add repeats if you feel like a whole shawl project, or knit the small size shown) as the prior two—
but it also struck me that if you attached ties to the sides, you could make an impromptu asymmetric haltertop sort of thing. The ties are a mod—and i-cord might work better—but the size of the kerchief is from the pattern as written, and it’s on a 34” bust dress form. If I were to formally write up a halter pattern, I have a few ideas for addressing that neckline—but for now, I’m trying to resist the temptation to get distracted from all the other things I have on my plate.
Anyway, that pretty much brings the blog up to date with the knitting pattern project for now! I missed updating in late May, but this gathers up most of the things outside the Summer Kitchen 2022 set. (It’s a set of one thing right now.)
(This shawl pattern is from May 2019; it’s a writeup on how to work what is essentially a very simple diagonal-triangle shawl.)
Gather up your soft yarn scraps, coordinate the colors, and get ready for an easy go-anywhere knit! This bias-knit garter stitch shawl consists of two extremely simple lines of instruction, and about three stitches total. It’s a free knitting pattern, though it’s simple enough that you might think of it more as a recipe. Either way, I hope you enjoy!
The color was weird a little weird on this one, so I guess I opted to remove most of it.
The Garter Scrap Shawl can be knit in any yarn, at any gauge.
My sample is shown in worsted weight, mostly Malabrigo Yarns Washted and Rios, in part because the surplus of loosely-related yarns and colorways left over from the Dog Days series is really what inspired this project. But it would look brilliant in light sock yarns, too, and a finer-gauge project might make a better travel knit.
Materials:
500+ yards of miscellaneous scrap yarns. (The sample shown took about 700 yards; the result is a nice big blanket shawl that weighs about 338g.)
1 long circular needle in US7-8/4.5-5.0mm, or size needed for gauge, or size needed to suit yarn.
Tapestry needle for weaving in ends.
Gauge: Gauge is the great unknowable. You can knit this at any gauge; please choose needles that give you a fabric you like with the yarn you’re using. Gauge in the sample shown is 16 sts and 36 rows in garter stitch before blocking.
Measurements: Knit until shawl reaches desired measurements. Sample measurements are shown in the schematic below.
In worsted-weight yarn, increasing to a final total of 167 sts, the shawl is about 78”/1.98m across the longest side. It’s almost a perfect triangle, but the shorter sides differ by 2”, something that could probably be lessened by careful blocking.
(I really wasn’t joking; there are three stitches, if you count the increase as a stitch.)
RS/WS—right side, wrong side. sl1–slip one. Sts are generally slipped purlwise unless otherwise specified. st/s—stitch, stitches
Begin Work. Using the cable cast-on method, CO 4 sts. Row 1 (RS). sl1, k remaining. Row 2 (WS). sl1, p1, k remaining., Row 3. sl1, k to last 2 sts, m1r, k2 (1 st inc) 5 sts.
Repeat Rows 2 & 3 until shawl reaches desired size, finishing with a completed WS row. The bindoff edge is going to be long. Please make sure you have enough yarn left to work the basic bindoff: sl1, k1, psso, [k1, pass previous st over] until all sts have been consumed. Weave in ends and block lightly.
Gratuitous Notes:
If you’ve got enough yarn to equal about 2.5x the current length of the (non-compressed) current row, it should be enough to knit a complete row. You’ll need a bit more than that to bind off.
When changing yarns, change them on the right side of work to avoid dotted-line garter stitch effects on the front. It is a shawl, so I mean, the reverse side is probably going to show, but if you like having a side without any dotted-line stripes, this is something to keep in mind.
If you’re working with small scraps, and don’t like weaving in ends, consider using them in as part of a fringe instead. If you join all your new scraps on the RS, all the ends will be on the bottom right edge of the triangle.
If you’re working with larger scraps or just dislike fringe, consider going completely crazy and weaving in a few ends as you go. This is sometimes regarded as playing with fire, but if you like how the shawl is coming along, it might be a good time saver, or insurance against spending an hour on the yarn ends when it’s finished.
There are lots of other ways to use your yarn scraps—you could use about 3.25 full skeins of Malabrigo Washted in coordinating colors, use this formula as the base for a temperature shawl, or knit it from a big skein of handspun.
We’re kicking off Summer Kitchen 2022 with a free/payment optional dishcloth pattern—because it’s a dishcloth and pretty straightforward, which feels like it should be free, and because it’s still a whole .PDF and in two formats, which means it’s a lot more subtle, behind-the-scenes work than it would be if I could just beam a project from my brain as I worked through it and knit the first sample, I guess.
Anyway, this is the free version for personal use! Enjoy it; knit as many as you like. If you like it a lot and prefer a .PDF, would like a .PDF in your Ravelry library, or simply want to support this project, you can purchase this as a .PDF through Ravelry.
This simple garter stitch dishcloth introduces (or helps you practice) a specialized increase that create a centered, crochet-look YO column at each corner! Getting used to the increase and a shifting start point makes this basic cloth more engag- ing to knit, while simple details make good kitchen tools.
I’m trying Knitpicks Cotolin for this, but it’s a new yarn for me, and I haven’t used the samples as kitchen cloths yet. You can substitute your preferred kitchen cotton or a combination of cotton or linen threads. This is written for dk-weight yarn, but adjusting the finished size is going to be pretty easy.
Materials:
100-600 yds of handspun chain-plied 12-14 WPI merino wool; shown in Wool for the Dame Corriedale in unknown colorway. For a similar effect, substitute Noro Silk Garden Sock. For a tonal effect, kettle-dyed Malabrigo Yarn Arroyo would be a good commercial option.
1 24”+ circular needle in US5/3.75mm, or size needed for gauge.
Optional: two ⅝-¾” buttons
Optional: sewing needle & thread for buttons
Gauge:
Gauge is 10 sts and 18 rows over 2“/5cm in pattern as written, blocked. Please be sure to check your gauge.
Abbreviations used:
k—knit
k2tog—knit two together; a one-stitch right-leaning decrease
m1l/r—make 1 left; make 1 right. Left- or right-leaning one-stitch increase.
mst—marked stitch
p—purl
RS/WS—right side, wrongside. Public vs. non-public side of the work.
ssk—slip, slip, knit, a one-stitch left-leaning decrease.
st/s—stitch/stitches
sl1wf/sl1wyb—slip one with yarn forward/slip one with yarn back
YO—yarn over
Measurements/Sizes:
This one is written with customization in mind! The sample is a kerchief-sized triangle. As shown, this specific sample measures 21“/53cm across the longest side and 10.25“/26cm deep.
Schematic:
Begin Work: Circular Cast-On. Using Emily Ocker’s circular cast-on method, CO 12 sts. Divide sts evenly between 4 DPNS (3 on each needle). Work in the round. Optional: place marker at the end of the round. You’ll need to shift the marker as you work, since the beginning of the round is always lined up with the chain link-look column.
Main Pattern. Round 1. [k1, p2] around.
Important Note—all knit stitches from Round 1 are marked sts (msts). You can use physical markers or just make a mental note to read your knitting—whichever’s most comfortable. When working a kYOk, the YO is in the middle, so marked stitch status transfers to it. This is the most (only?) challenging/interesting part of the project.
Round 2. [kYOk, k to next mst] around (8 sts inc) 20 sts total. Round 3. [k1, p to next mst] around. Round 4. [kYOk, k to next mst] around (8 sts inc) 28 sts total.
Repeat Rounds 3 & 4 until there are 15(18, 21) ridges of garter stitch, counting from the center out. Many cotton or cotton-linen blends are prone to a little shrinking, so if you’d like a larger cloth, it’s easy to simply add a few rounds.
Bind Off/Finishing. Bind off using the basic method—k1, k next st, pass previous stitch over, repeat ** until all sts have been bound off—or method of your choice. Weave in any remaining yarn ends, wash, block, and enjoy your finished project!
Agate Cowl! I love this thing; it’s probably my favorite hex cowl so far. The idea and its execution are both fairly simple: agate in cross-section, paired with a just-slightly-more angular knit shape. The angles show off the multicolor handspun yarn, which is just a basic plied (2 ply) dyed wool.
(It’s very like the fractal ply idea, but I am pretty sure I didn’t do that; I am pretty sure I just tried—in a very casual way—to match two evenly-divided vertically-split portions of the wool top. I may have done a fractal ply, though. You can really try either, or just spin singles—anything that results in yarn with long color transitions will work.)
Handspinning is good for this project, but not essential; you can re-create the same striping effect with some commercial yarns like Noro, or use scraps to exercise more control over the color flow.
For me, though, working on this and other handspun projects has meant I’ve been feeling interested in spinning my own yarn again for the first time in a long time. It’s early to be sure where that’s going—embrace it as a full-on hobby that supports my work? Spin the fleeces I have so that I can have yarn or sweaters instead of fleeces and guilt, then bail and sell on my spinning-related gear? I seriously cannot even predict at this point—but for now, it’s not a bad way to feel productive without the same pressures to actually produce.
MEANWHILE, I’m also trying to reclaim & recycle yarn from older projects, which is vaguely fulfilling (I often make multiple samples for even a small design, and I do not need to keep every sample I make. But I always need yarn) but also weirdly opposite: I think most yarn is meant to hold up to reuse, because if it’s not, it won’t hold up to wear, and I also believe that being able to change up the things you make into something that suits you better is one of the most appealing aspects to the skill of being able to knit a garment—but I’m worried about future samples or projects looking shopworn for photos.
All right! That’s it for now. Take care til next time! (There may actually be a next post; I am working on it.)
Spokey Shawl is now live! I’m planning bonus content for it—an additional repeat, planned so that the entire knit takes around ~2-3 balls of soft sock yarn (probably 900-1200 total required yards)—which will be available at a later date.
First business: there’s a new shawl in town, if by ”new shawl” you mean ”downloadable .PDF of the shawl design written as a pattern so you can make your own,” and by “town” you mean ”on my Ravelry page.”
It’s called Iteration. It ends up being a pretty rewarding project; I think the unique shape makes it very wearable. It can be folded in half to wear like a triangle-ish shawl, over the shoulders, but it expands into a hexagon.
Second order of business is increased cost of living and how it is starting to be felt, oh no!
So! I’ve only been on social media hiatus for about three days, but it seems, for now, to have been Enough.
(I’m not sure if you could tell there was a hiaturs; I’m not sure I’d expect you to be able to tell, even if you were following any of my media closely. My posting schedule overall is not the most consistent.)
Anyway, today we have Weird Fitted Cowl Thing, officially called Hex Key Cowl. It’s oddly shaped and, unusually for me, involves your choice of mattress seaming or a three-needle bindoff. (I went with the latter. I don’t love sewing knits, although I’m getting better at it, and it’s started to feel satisfying and pro; it doesn’t look like I couldn’t seam a potholder to save a life anymore. So that’s nice.)
I’m actually pretty well pleased with how it turned out! I’m working on a second sample, with hopes to explore some tentative ideas; I had a third finishing option that might be a nice potential addition to the pattern, and some things that are less directly related. (It’s anyone’s guess which are goin
Anyway, meanwhile, it’s spring! Holy crap! I’ve been dealing with subzero cold fronts for the past six weeks, up til recently. I am not used to this. These concepts. Sunlight. Plants growing. It’s weird.
What have I been doing all February? Well, I’ve been knitting a hat. One hat. It literally took me ten days to knit a hat that should’ve maybe taken four or five
I’m never knitting another one, but…you can, if you want.
(Yeah, this is effective marketing copy.)
(Really though, while it is a long hat, if you’re not ripping back the crown decreases to make them more coherent throughout the sizing options, and then pay attention to the changes you’ve made, it won’t be onerous. I hated this hat a little bit so you can enjoy it, basically, and that’s what a significant fraction of this kind of design work is sometimes.)
(And I guess I also knit about 40% of a cardigan, but nevermind that.)
It’s got a liner option. The liner is not the same hat knit again. I couldn’t handle that.
This hat is almost three feet long from hem to tip in the adult medium size, which fits 21-22.5” head circumferences. The sizing is broad, but the pure length on these makes me wonder if a baby size is appropriate: it might be cute for closely-observed babies, as in those fancy baby photosets you do to commemorate a person being a baby, etc., but it’s not ideal for general baby-use unless your baby is old enough to sit up, walk, run, escape traps, make its own sandwiches, and solve simple logic puzzles. You just don’t want the long hat style to give a baby trouble.
And finally, here’s the link to the Ravelry .PDF. There’s a limited-time promo going on now, though that assumes you’re reading this the weekend of March 4th, 2022, and it probably won’t be the case a week or two in the future. Anyway, hat! It’s a good hat. I’m still not sure I want to knit another one, though.
I have revamped the website! It looks super cool, like a blog from 2008.
MEANWHILE, I’ve also been working on some sweater ideas. Sweater design feels like a bit of a luxury compared to cowls or hats, even though it’s often what I’d like to be doing—it takes so much more time, and so much more yarn, and that’s just to knit a sample to get the idea down. And you have to know how arms work. Like. How they usually attach to the body. Where they come out. Etc.
Starling Sweater. The photo shows a half-view of a half-finished cardigan. The yarn is grey wool, a little rustic. Bamboo double-pointed knitting needles stick out of the fabric of a sleeve in progress.
It’s about as slow as fashion can be, short of owning the sheep and starting from there.
ANYWAY, in the meantime, while I hope to have 2+ larger designs ready to finish out the year, there will be a few new smaller projects during the holidays! I’ll be wrapping up a cowl and a possible hat in the next few days. (I have finished the cowl, and you can knit your own (link goes to Ravelry design page). The hat is under review. I am not certain about it.)
The Mouse Army Knitting Co. 