It’s got a little in common with Manta, in that it uses a similar exploded-shape concept (Manta is a kind of broken square; this is a kind of wrecked rectangle, I guess). The slightly weird shape lends itself well to wearing; there are a couple of ways to style it that I’ve found so far, just trying to get photos of the finished shawl.
I worked a second test/sample in worsted-weight cotton blend, and while my final gauge is to be determined, my yardage was very different—a little over 500 yards rather than just under 455–so if you’re going to play yarn chicken, be careful. Maybe yarn chicken is not advised at all for this; I am not sure.
Coming soon! This shawl is an expansion of the Dog Days 8 pattern—essentially, I was working up a second sample, but I had ~500 yards of worsted-ish yarn, and wanted to keep going. This is a cotton blend (it’s Caron Cotton Cakes or something else big-box; it’s surprisingly enjoyable to knit with), and seems like it would be good used for post-swim pullover sweaters and wraps. It has almost a chamois-like texture, though I’m sure it won’t behave the same way.
Anyway, a main redeeming feature of this design is that it looks pretty nice on the back; it’s essentially reversible, though not identical on either side. I almost prefer the back of the second lace motif.
I finally finished the .PDF pattern for the design that preceded the 14-square scarf! It’s called Window Greens, because the original used green yarn and I was thinking about arugula. But the final version had some substantial changes—it calls for soft DK yarn instead of fingering-weight, and the button configuration is less straightforward (but not too convoluted) and a lot more functional.
There are two* ways to finish the Stay-at-Home Auxiliary Scarf: with a knitted border, which was the original idea but will definitely take some stitch management, or with i-cord, which might be easier, given the length of the edges of the 14-square scarf.
For the knitted border, you’ll need the longest circular needle available (I used a 48”/120cm needle, and it was tough going); for the i-cord, two DPNs are recommended.
*Or two ways I am going into, I guess.
The I-cord border can be worked over 3 or 5 sts, depending on your preference. Two double pointed needles (in size used for overall gauge) will make it easier, but this can also be done with a circular, if you can’t find your DPNs and are only doing a few rounds to show how the technique should work. This is a weird, unlikely scenario, though, in no way related to the photos. (The sentence preceding this one is not sincere. I could not find my DPNs. I did the thing I am talking about.)
When finishing the 14th square, do not bind off. This will leave you with 3 live sts.
Switch to DPNs.
(For the 5 st version only: flip to the WS, and, using the cable cast-on method, add 2 sts.)
Work attached I-cord border: k3(5) *slide sts to working end of the needle. k2(4), slip last st as if to knit, pick up 1 st from next selvedge. k last st tog with picked-up st, as if working a ssk.*
Repeat ** until i-cord edging has been applied all the way around. On the corners, you can pick up 2 sts in the same selvedge or cast-on bump, but other than that, pick up 1 st per selvedge.
Finish i-cord by weaving the live sts together with the first sts, as if working Kitchener st.
Weave in ends, block, and you’re done!
Knit Border. (This version was the original, but it can be genuinely tricky to keep >902 sts on a long circular needle. Putting the project down can result in mild heartbreak and dozens of stitches popping off; there is a palpable risk of breaking a wooden needle. Mine held up, but it was a close thing for a while.)
Finish the 14th square according to the line instructions. You’ll be left with 1 live stitch on the needle.
Pick Up Sts. With the RS facing up, working right to left, pick up 30 sts per each mitered square, for a total of about 420 sts. (See Note, below.) Turn work 90 degrees. Pick up ~31 sts along this side. Place a removable marker on the first and 31st sts. Turn work 90 degrees. Pick up ~420 sts along the side. Turn work 90 degrees. Pick up ~30 sts along this side. Place a removable marker on the first st, and on the live stitch from the bindoff.
There will be about 902 sts.
Note: the exact number of stitches, especially on the long edges, isn’t too important; the instructions that follow will still be functional if the stitch counts are slightly off.
Work continues from here in the round.
Begin Work. Round 1. [k1, p to next marked st] around. Round 2. [k1, m1l, k to next marked st, m1r] around (8 sts inc) 910 sts total.
Repeat Rounds 1 & 2 two more times. (926 sts total) End with a repeat of Round 2. Bind off using the basic method. Break yarn, weave in ends, and block!